The Longest Week, the Sharpest Suits

Doyle Mueser Bespoke is very happy to announce that we are providing the wardrobe for "The Longest Week," a new film by Peter Glanz, starring Jason Bateman, Billy Crudup, and Olivia Wilde. "The Longest Week," is the story of Conrad Valmont, (played by Mr. Bateman,) scion of a wealthy New York family in the luxury hotel business. Suddenly disinherited, Valmont has to learn to fend for himself for the first time in his life. Mr. Crudup plays his best friend, and the beautiful Ms. Wilde is, of course, the love interest.

Doyle Mueser has designed and made bespoke suits for both Mr. Crudup and Mr. Bateman, and will be creating costumes for Ms. Wilde. The beautiful results can be seen below in photos taken in Manhattan this weekend on the first day of filming.

Billy Crudup, looking unimpeachably handsome and stylish in our grey three-piece notch-lapel suit, blue shirt with white contrasting rounded Eton-style collar, and black butterfly-end bow tie.

Jason Bateman, in a two-button notch lapel suit with a classic white shirt and bow tie. 

Our two stars, expertly tailored and immaculately pressed.

                        

The Men in the Gray Flannel Suits

One of my favorite stories involving Winston Churchill was recently recounted by Stephen Fry on the excellent British quiz show QI. An aide came to the Prime Minister to warn him of a potential scandal. A member of Parliament of their party had been caught indulging in homosexual conduct in one of Her Majesty's parks in London. Churchill thought carefully for a moment then said "rather cold last night, wasn't it?" The aide, not a little bit confused, agreed that it was. Churchill then cooly said: "makes you proud to be British." Presumably, the great statesman was himself warmly suited at the time in his favored Fox Brothers flannel.

We at Doyle Mueser are very happy to announce that we are now one of the few North American Bespoke establishments currently stocking Fox Brothers wool & worsted suiting fabric. Fox Brothers is most famous as the company which originated the ubiquitous fabric known as flannel. The company was established in 1772, and continues to offer the finest flannel in the world.

Fox Brothers fabric is made at the company's mill in Somerset, England. Perhaps most impressive is that Fox Brothers keeps an astonishingly comprehensive swatch archive, containing fabric samples going back over 100 years, allowing them to bring back older patterns, as they recently did with Winston Churchill's signature chalkstripe.

In addition to inventing flannel, Fox Brothers can also be credited with creating the sturdy serge fabric used by the British army which came to be known as khaki, even lending its name to a color. While Doyle Mueser doesn't get many requests for khaki, we do offer several beautiful varieties of Fox Brothers flannel in several shades of gray and blue: plains, chalkstripes, pinstripes, chalk windowpanes, houndstooths, and soft, warmly blurred checks.

The clip from QI can be viewed below.

Tweed

Oh, look at that ass,” O’Toole said softly, shaking his head, raising his eyes with approval. “That ass is covered with tweed made in Connemara, where I was born…Nicest asses in the world, Ireland. Irishwomen still are carrying water on their heads and carrying their husbands home from pubs, and such things are the greatest posture builders in the world”

Peter O’Toole, in Gay Talese’s Peter O’Toole on the Ould Sod

Whether you think the great Mr. O'Toole was overstating the case for Irish posteriority or not, the case for tweed is less contentious. Tweed is one of the world's most venerable suiting fabrics: hardy enough for country wear, colorful enough for city wear, traditional enough for Parliament, durable enough for laying passed out in the gutter stinking of Balvenie scotch along with the other MPs. Add to this the faint whiff of urine given off by the fabric when it gets wet due to the ammonia used to bond it (this doesn't actually happen any more thanks to modern methods of preparing the fabric - we promise) and you can blame your coming home late stinking of drink and piss on the combination of precipitation and tweed.

But, kidding aside, tweed has a much more respectable history than we've implied with our imagined member of the House of Lords and his boozy misadventures. Tweed has recently been celebrated in a new book, and "tweed rides" - urban cycling parties kitted out in the finest of the cloth - are being held annually in London, New York, and Washington DC. 

At Doyle Mueser we have several fine bunches of tweed to choose from for your autumn suiting. Holland and Sherry's "Sherry Tweed" is made in the Tweed Valley in Scotland and some of the colors and patterns which stand out in the bunch are windowpane checks in blue on red, and yellow on purple, blue and grey Prince of Wales check, herringbones in pink, blue, and orange, and earthy-colored pinhead weaves flecked with colored points.

John G. Hardy's Harris Tweed is woven in the Outer Hebrides, off the coast of Scotland and conforms to the rigorous standards of the Harris Tweed Authority:

1. It must be made from Pure New Wool.

2. It must be hand woven in the weaver’s home.

3. It must be finished in the Outer Hebrides.
4. It must be wrapped around a young virgin girl who is then sacrificed to pagan gods before it is shipped to Doyle Mueser.

Ok...So that last one wasn't true. But what is true is that John G. Hardy's Alsport line of thinner tweeds is where the famous "Glen Plaid" or "Prince of Wales Check" was first created. The line also features multi-hued district checks, barleycorn weaves, birdseyes, and nailheads.
       

Our book containing the thickest tweed is the W. Bill Irish Donegal Tweed, presumably of the kind wrapped lovingly around the aforementioned ass admired by Mr. O'Toole. As the promotional copy reads: “William Bill was among the first to recognise the value of the rich tones and flecking which is typical of Donegal Tweed – reflecting the gorse heathers and lichens on which the colours were originally based.” I don't know what gorse heathers are (I picture a part-horse-part-goose named Heather,) but I'm sure Mr. Bill Bill must have been on to something. 

Finally, we are the only bespoke tailor on this side of the Atlantic to offer Dashing Tweeds, the wild-patterned-and-colored monster fabric which was the child of dandy and photographer Guy Hills. All of the fabrics are bold to the point that any man wearing them will need extra room in their trouser rise to accomodate his massive balls. Some of the fabrics even have a stripe or two of reflective thread woven into them so that when a headlight or camera flash hits it, it lights up. How flash is that?

Bows for Beaux

This year marks Doyle Mueser's first gleeful leap into the hallowed domain of the bow tie. The difference in thoughtful styling between vertical and horizontal neckwear is not an insignificant one. Both types of neckwear come from the same source: Croation mercenaries visiting the French court in the 17th century caught the eye of foppish noblemen who named the rakish scarves worn by the soldiers the "cravat," after the french for Croat. But the divergent evolution between the two ties is as obscure as it is marked. These days, bow ties are made mostly in three styles (with stranger variations occasionally making an appearance): the straight, oar-like "batwing," the flaring "thistle" end, and a slightly racier breed with pointed ends. Doyle Mueser stocks the latter two in a variety of colors and patterns.

Why does Wikipedia's list of Bow Tie wearers feature the phrase "trademark bow tie" so frequently? Because the bow tie is a choice for the bolder man - a less typical choice, one which reflects the natural individuality of the wearer. Among the bow-tied icons we find men as diverse as tubby war horse Winston Churchill, inimitable genius Bill Nye the Science Guy, pretentious architect Le Corbusier, children's television star and adult film connoisseur Pee Wee Herman, dapper dancer Fred Astaire, moustachioed wiseass Groucho Marx, shotgun-weilding president Teddy Roosevelt, the newest incarnation of Doctor Who, Matt Smith (one can almost forgive his clip-on suspenders,) creepy black supremacist Louis Farrakhan, slobbering mallard Donald Duck, and, of course, the original Satanic Edwardian Pervert - Aleister Crowley. These men are iconoclasts one and all, alike only in their preferred neckwear.

When purchasing a bow tie, apart from its color and pattern, pay close attention to the spread, points, and style of your collar, the height of your suit or vest's gorge, and the size and shape of your handsome face. The most important things to remember about a bow tie are these:

1. If you wear a strap-on or clip-on variety people will think less of you and spit in your food when your back is turned.

2. If you wear anything else to a Monte Carlo casino, the other secret agents will laugh you out of the room and then spit in your champagne.

3. It is much more difficult to be strangled with your bow tie than with a typical necktie.

The Trivial Pursuits of Arthur Banks

We at Doyle Mueser are proud to announce the premiere of AMC's new online miniseries: "The Trivial Pursuits of Arthur Banks." One of the show's most striking features is its visual style: a bold, high-contrast black and white, with deep, dramatic shading. Doyle Mueser Bespoke designed and supplied the fine suits seen on-screen, and we're confident that our work compliment's the show's aesthetic appeal.

The Trivial Pursuits of Arthur Banks can be viewed on the AMC website here:

http://www.amctv.com/shows/the-trivial-pursuits-of-arthur-banks

and on Hulu here:

http://www.hulu.com/the-trivial-pursuits-of-arthur-banks

One Hella an Umbrella

One day the Count Alfred d'Orsay, the celebrated Anglo-French dandy, was performing his daily ablutions in front of the mirror; dressing, preening, and perfuming himself. A knock at the door interrupted this sacrament. A bailiff had snuck into Gore House dressed as a baker's deliveryman. The man served Lady Blessington, the Count's patron and suspected paramour, a writ saying her property was to be confiscated. The Lady and her young and handsome companion had run up a staggering amount of debt - she on her lavish house and he, naturally, at his tailors. Lady Blessington immediately sent one of her footmen to d’Orsay’s room. The Count, annoyed by the interruption, sent the footman away, but he was badly shaken and knew the time had come to flee. On that Sunday, he packed a small number of essentials and left Gore House forever. He paused to look at his scant luggage, including a prized umbrella of his. “Well,” he said, with true dandy sang-froid, “at least, if I have nothing else, I will have the best umbrella that ever was."

When I was a younger man my Uncle, a prominent Indian politician, took me aside to show me his treasured heirloom umbrellas. His father, also a politician, was nervous about assassination attempts, so he thought the best defense against both rain and would-be Gavrilo Princip-types was a concealed umbrella weapon. One was the typical black English sword umbrella of the kind made famous by John Steed of the Avengers. The other featured a flip-out hidden trigger and a chamber capable of holding a single shotgun shell. The umbrella could only be used once - the shot would tear apart the shaft and, more than likely, the user's hand. But the lesson is an important one - no gentleman should be without the protection afforded by an umbrella.

Our umbrellas are not firearms or swords, but they do feature a single solid carved piece of cherry wood as a handle and shaft, and come in a delightful variety of colors and patterns. And they are more than ideal for the traditional uses of the umbrella: rescuing attractive people cowering under awnings, poking the motionless to make sure they're still alive, and, of course, keeping one's Doyle Mueser Bespoke suit pristine and dry.

Velvet Slippers

"Oh! I didn't see you come in." That's the kind of thing you can say with confidence while turning away from your mantlepiece, snapped from your reverie - if you're wearing a pair of velvet slippers. Pipe clenched in teeth, ascot cradling chin, and toes housed in sumptuous velvet. You will be the spitting image of a Satanic Victorian pervert.

 But I can assure you, dear reader, that our new slippers (made for us by English shoe designer Jeffery West,) aren't only for such rarified specimens of humanity. One can wear them sockless with jeans to a wholesome picnic, with dress hose to play footsie with the debutante next to you at the opera, or simply taking a victim friend on a routine midnight inspection of your wine cellar wearing naught else but a fez and a lascivious leer.

The slippers are available in blue or black velvet and feature a devilish cloven heel and a Tudor rose embroidered onto the toe. They can also be used to shoo away dementia-induced hallucinatory demons.

Doyle Mueser Bespoke Tie and Pocket Square collection

Hello one and all. Here we have for you our latest collection of ties and pocket squares. Offering styles in oversized Prince of Wales plaid, micro houndstooth, classic university stripe and summer colored solids. All are made of fantastic quality British loomed silk and hand rolled to create the sharpest neck and pocket wear there is. The perfect accessory for any summer wardrobe.

Boating in style

The time of the Henley Regatta is nearly upon our friends over in olde England. Take a leaf from their book and see summer in with style in one of our latest designs, our take on a traditional boating blazer. A summer favorite of blue bloods and rock stars alike (Brian Jones, Paul Weller et el). The perfect garment to enjoy a gin and tonic in the summer's sun.  Thanks to our friends at Hendricks you can freely do this with us while getting fitted for your blazer. I strongly recommend sampling their pink g' and t', Hendricks, tonic and a dash of bitters!

Iconic keith ring

Now available at Doyle Mueser, our variation of the iconic skull ring as worn by Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones.  Skillfully created by Ryan Matthew.  The perfect accessory for the wardrobe of a gentleman with a dark side.

William Halstead British Mohair

William Halstead's latest collection of fine mohairs includes blends from 60/40 kid mohair/wool to the coveted 100% kid mohair.  Quickly becoming a favorite here at Doyle Mueser, this collection offers the perfect fabric for a crisp clean suit while still being incredibly light and breathable, perfect for the approaching warm weather.

Dormeuil Amadeus 365

Dormeuil's latest addition to the Amadeus collection, 365 is a wonderful luxury cloth for all seasons.  Perfect for the suit you want to wear any occasion, 365 days a year.

And One For The Ladies

Suits by Doyle Mueser